Deutscher Text

 

11.06.2009 – "The best thing about holidays are the memories of it"
17° and sunny at time of sailing
Arrival at the ship / Embarkation
in Bremerhaven port After months of expectation and anticipation we finally go aboard our 3. cruise. Under the motto "MIDSUMMER IN ICELAND, SPITSBERGEN AND NORWAY" we travel into the artic regions. Our "train to the ship" is on time until shortly before Bremen railway station, and we believe ourselves to be almost on deck. But then, by a further 'proof of service' of Deutsche Bahn (public railway company), namely 20 minutes downtime shortly before Bremen, we miss the connecting train from Bremen to Bremerhaven. One should include the "capabilities" of Deutsche Bahn in his trip planning. We did so. Thus enough time reserve is available, and we finally sit more or less on schedule in the bus from Bremerhaven station to the cruise terminal. The busdriver gives tons of explanations during this 15-min bus ride. Thanks for the explanations and anecdotes! Now we know, for example, where the green bananas from overseas get their yellow paint.
The dolphin on the chimney of our ship is visible from afar. It shows us the way and conjures up a first smile on our face. After an hour of waiting in the terminal we are finally on deck at 17:15. At 18:03 we run to the great voyage! The tune "Time to Say Goodbye" is played at sailing. And - as if ordered - the sun comes out and shows us the way to the open sea.
All our cases have found the right cabin in time. So did we. The first impression of the cabin is very positive: not wastefully large but sufficient space available. The view from the large window is almost unhindered. Only a strip in the upper third of the window is obscured by a lifeboat. You can see the horizon and how the weather will be. So be it. Not bad for a roulette cabin.
The first dinner is the pure pleasure. Stuffed and satisfied we sit in the Panorama Bar, drink an espresso, enjoy the view and decide to explore the entire ship. So we enter each public door, each deck, each bar and each corner of the ship. At half past 12 and about 12,500 steps later we are tired and lie in our beds but somehow can not think of sleep. Not even the gentle rocking motions of the Delphin Voyager would make us get asleep. Too many impressions have to be processed. But sometime during the night the sandman comes along finally...

cabin 5044 bathroom: small, but clean view from the window The panoramic bar

 


12.06.2009 – "A journey is a drink from the fountain of life"
15° - sunny to partly cloudy
Day at sea
evening on deck Countless seagulls circle the ship and fly low to accompany us on our trip through the North Sea. Rigs along the waterway show us the way to the north. After an "Early Bird Breakfast" on the deck and a second extensive breakfast in the restaurant (main components: herring and chocolate croissants) the North Sea with all its wonderful colours is waiting for us. The sunlight creates colourful 'islands' on the surface of the royal blue water and gives the impression that we are in the Caribbean Sea. A s-s-stiff breeze which lets us lose the wind puts the caribbean fantasy back into perspective - we are on the way into the pack ice zones of our planet. Reading, looking and wondering we spend this day on board.
At night the tailcoats - but no penguins - are in the focus. The welcome dinner with a personal greeting by Captain Christo Daoutis transforms jeans and sweaters passengers into an army of tuxedos and evening gowns. The actual dinner fulfils any sumptuous wish and expectation and conjures a fat smile on most faces.
This evening has its joyous finale at the Panorama Bar which lives up to its name: High above the waves, with a sweet view on the sundown and a dry wine in our glasses the evening and our glasses go low around 11 pm.

rescue practice The sun deck. Behind the glass: gym welcome diner Us wolves and the captain

 


13.06.2009 – "The desire nourishes our soul - not the fulfillment"
App. 11° - overcast, dry and quite windy
Kirkwall / Orkney Islands (Scotland)
Mainlands (Orkney Islands) In the land of kilts we wear trousers on our trip to Kirkwall (Orkney Islands). The Orkneys are an archipelago consisting of about 70 smaller islands and the main island called Mainland. Kirkwall is its capital, situated on Mainland on an isthmus between East and West Mainland. 600 passengers pour forth into the island life and change the overall appearance.
We chose a half-day excursion which takes us through Kirkwall which was founded in 1436 as a royal city. Later our journey continues through green meadows and marshes, across the isthmus between the lakes of Loch Harray and Loch of Stenness, into the northern part of Mainland. Our first stop takes place at the 5000 years old stone settings "Ring of Brodgar", up to 6 m high, almost looking like a modern art sculpture. The huge, megalithic monuments which remind of Stonehenge are precisely aligned and still raise more questions than answers to their meaning.
Proceed to the village Skara Brae, located on a sandy bay. Skara Brae is the largest and best preserved prehistoric Stone Age settlement ever been exposed. Together with the visitor center where the construction and history of discovery are documented as well as general facts about the neolithic age life, Skara Brae today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ten rampart-protected huts can be dated back to around 2500 BC. They were discovered in 1850 after a storm had blown the sand dunes. Since wood was not available on the island during the stone age period nearly all things were manufactured of stone - including the beds.
Finally we visit Skaill House. This old country estate of the Lairds of Brackness serves as a museum nowadays. We get an inside view into the living rooms and the culture of the upper class of the 17th/18th century.

This journey is probably the standard touristic program on Mainland as other touristy highlights are rare.
At 12:47 we take - almost on schedule - course for Iceland. 1 ½ hours at creep speed are necessary to maneuver us safely from the waters around Orkney island (mixed with shoals and rocky islands) to the open sea. The captain feels comfortable again and accelerates to app. 18 knots, our trip speed towards Iceland.
At night we sit in the bar with its panoramic view of the late setting sun. We sail north or north-northwest, steadily, steadily, towards the sun before the bow. The sun will not set. Even a 11 pm, just before our bedtime, she has not set yet.

'Ring of Brodgar' Biggi amid Mainlands coast: Skara Brae Excavated: Skara Brae Skaill House

 


14.06.2009 – "Miracles are seen by those who believe"
App. 15° - sunny, hardly any wind
Day at sea
In the panoramic bar Our full breakfast in the morning provides a high calorie level. This day at sea is stamped by sun-bathing (although wrapped in blankets) and recreation. In other words: hanging out in the comfortable sunloungers on the deck. Captain Bluebear invites us to a free beer and one or two free burgers around noon time - a very important measure to maintain the calorie level shortly before lunch.
We jog in the afternoon like each day before aboard as countermeasure against millions of calories. 30 minutes (or nearly 4 miles) on the treadmill in the fitness room destroy about 400 calories. Just the right thing to strike back at night and dine to the full extent.
After dinner (about 3,000 calories later) we have a colourful cocktail in hand. The Faroe Islands pass by. In fact they are only visible with binoculars. But nevertheless this is the high-light of the evening - of course next to the "High Light" in the sky. The sun would not set (sunset today 11:34 pm, but we say good night before).

Piano bar (non-smoker area) Delphin bar Pool deck Sundown (app. 11 pm)

 


15.06.2009 – "The world is full of wonders"
10-12° - Sunny but windy
Reykjavik / Iceland
geyser 'Strokkur' - sehr aktiv At 8:00 am we enter the harbor of Reykjavik. At 8:45 the ship is authorized by the customs. The day trip follows right away. The organization for the planned excursions is excellent and never caused any significant delay. We drive from Reykjavik through lava fields and stone deserts to Hveragerdi. In the greenhouses that are heated by hot springs grow grapes, bananas, and exotic flowers - a curiosity for these latitudes.
A few miles further we see Kerið, a 55 m deep crater which formed 3000 years ago and is filled now with an emerald-green lake. A 15-minute break gives us the opportunity to shoot some photos (and have a fag).
On we go through green (!) landscapes to Gullfoss-waterfall (translated: Gold cascade). The milky glacial waters of the river Hvitá first flow in large areas over a steep slope covered with moss and then falls from a height of 37 meters into a wild gorge between perpendicular walls of basalt.
A short time later we reach the geothermal area of the 'Great Geyser'. The Great Geysir itself is no longer active but his 'neighbour', "Strokkur" even more: a fountain of boiling water goes up high in the air in exact intervals of about 7 minutes. Bubbling mud pools, hissing solfataras and hot ground make us realize the tremendous natural power beneath the thin crust.
After lunch (soup, freshly caught salmon with vegetables and potatoes) we pass Laugarvatn and get to Thingvellir. Within this very bizarre lava landscape where the European and American continental plates collide the first parliament of the world assembled in 930 AD. We take a walk through the gorge Allmaennerschlucht. On our way back to Reykjavik we make another brief stop in the event & shopping center "Pearl". 17:10 we are back on the ship, at 17:15 I'm on the treadmill, and I move it, yeah! Half an hour exercises per day is a must!
At 6 pm we say goodbye to Reykjavik. The sailing melody touches our heart because we know that probybly we will never come back here in our lives...
The diner is far too opulent as usual - the food is too good to skip any course. Unfortunately clouds come up. We have no chance to observe the midnight sun. But tomorrow we'll have the first midnight sun (sundown 00:00). Hopefully the clouds dissappear.

2 contintental plates: Europe (rear) and America (front) Gulfoss waterfall The 'eye' (100°) Iceland Kerid crater (app. 6.500 years old) View on Reykjavik

 


16.06.2009 – "Travelling educates the young and broadens the old mind"
8° - many clouds, but dry. Sunny afternoon
Akureyri / Iceland
Boiling water on Iceland The snowy mountains of Iceland's north coast welcome us on deck this morning. Our position on the way from Reykjavik to Akureyri (total 352 nautic miles) is 66° 33’ 320’’ north. We do not ship further north today. The Delphin Voyager veers to the east and we sail along the north coast of Iceland. That saves me and other passengers from the "traditional north polar baptism" as the arctic circle is a few arcseconds further north at 66° 34’.
After breakfast we jog. Yes, directly afterwards! One can enjoy the rest of the day! YES! YES! YES! On top the next refreshment: an icy wind - little brother of storm - blows on the top deck and blows away the last tiredness. We rather prefer a comfortable chair in the piano bar and watch the snowy landscape passing by. We also listen to the recital of the lecturer on one of our next destinations to have a piece of knowledge for being consumed in-between. Then it's already time for lunch. The time on a ship seems to run somewhat faster than in normal life - a pity.
The next half-day excursion is waiting for us in the north of Iceland. It starts in the afternoon and leads us from Akureyri via Vaglaskogur, one of Islands 3 forests (we would never call it "forest" but *low scrub*) to the waterfall of the gods, the mighty Goðafoss. The water rushes down this broad waterfall more than 12 m. According to the legend Thorgeir had thrown the last pagan idols into the Godafoss after the agreed takeover of Christianity as state religion in the year 1000 AD, hence its name.
On we move to Lake Myvatn, a nature reserve which is known for its natural beauty and its rich birdlife. We have a coffee break which includes some kind of baked fish as well as salmon and sweet sandwiches (all served on the same plate).
After this strange lunch we visit the area solfataras Hveraönd near the tuff mountain Námafjáll. This region is one of the most active volcanic regions of Iceland. Between the hot, bubbling mud pots, the yellow sulfur springs, the loud hissing fumaroles and the unusual ground staining we get the impression of being in an utterly alien world. The strong smell of sulfur underlines this visual impression.
The next destination is called Dimmuborgir (the "gloomy castles"). We walk through bizarre lava formations. Flowing lava met moist soil about 2000 years ago. Evaporating water ascended through chimneys and tubes and created huge, bizarre lava formations. Thousands and billions tiny critters are flying around but they do not sting luckily. We have a good look at the Hverfjall, a remarkably symmetrical tuff ring volcano.
In Skútustadir finally we visit the pseudo-craters (or better pass by in a slow bus ride). Actually they look like "real" craters.
 
"Our" bus is back on time. It is just time for a cigarette at the bar before dinner is served. Yes, one of the amenities aboard the Delphin Voyager are smoking areas in some bars. You will notice no exaggerated puff or extraordinary odor. The smoker does not need to enter the stormy deck to have a smoke. The atmosphere is more relaxed, even if some notorious non-smokers tried to shed their dogma.
Later that evening we head into the Panorama Bar. The midnight sun beckons, and luck is on our side. Up to 23:15 anyway. We have made 6 or 8 phantastic photos of the slowly setting sun before oncoming clouds - only a narrow strip just above the horizon - stop further observations. The enthusiasm among the passengers nevertheless would not vanish. We are excited. Something special is in the air. It is no longer dark. Midnight passes by. It is as bright as daylight. Fatigue? Nil. At 1 or 1:30 am we have the big luck to see some whales playing their games with the water surface. Unfortunately in a rather great distance, thus my hunt with the camera is not successfull at all. But more luck next time, promised! (Hopefully...)

'lake mosquito' Namafjall region: geothermal ... ... very active chimneys everywhere Godafoss waterfall

 


17.06.2009 – "To travel is life, as life is travelling"
5° - foggy, late afternoon: "solar miracle"
Jan Mayen island/ Norway (passage)
In a distance: Jan Mayen island "... Go and Repent." That's what the bible says (I believe). Well, we don't go, but we repent of our last night's long stay in the bar and little sleep afterwards.
Biggi leaves out the meals today to cut down a little, but I take (almost) every course like (almost) every day.
We don't miss a thing anyway because today we have left the world behind. What remains is the vessel and a narrow strip of water about 30 meters around. And then ... nothing. Niente. End. Finish. Or better: THE FOG of horror lies down on us and cuts all civilization and the world.
And then the miracle. Upon arriving at Jan Mayen it clears. The fog rises, warps, evaporates, and the sun comes out and spotlights the Beerenberg on Jan Mayen. All passengers beam with joy.
The photos are made. At reaching the last headland of this uninhabited island the miracle ends. Fog comes up again. What had happened? Did we really have such good fortune to catch one of only 35 days a year in which one may catch a glimpse of Jan Mayen? A nearly incredible story, but it happened like this. Jan Mayen in "full bloom"- a masterpiece of the tour management. Compliment!
Tomorrow is another day. Even on board. Therefore we go to bed pretty early. Yawn! Good night!

Jan Mayen island in the distance Jan Mayen island by telephoto Goggy day: time for experiments 'Beerenberg'of Jan Mayen - rare view

 


18.06.2009 – "The sea is the last free place on the sea"
3° - fog, rainy
Day at sea
Delphin Voyager before Spitsbergen The Dolphin Bar is equipped with stylish paintings. The sofas are not quite new (in contrast to the comfortable leather chairs) but spread a homelike atmosphere. Thick fog on a day at sea brings the "temporary home" a little closer as you have time for a detailled look.
The Delphin Voyager was built in 1990 as "Orient Venus" in Japan. The aft part was reconstructed 2006/2007 in Greece and the kitchen area was rebuilt. Since then it runs under the flag of the Bahamas for a Greek shipowner who keeps this ship as a hobby. A maximum of 650 passengers (in max. 325 cabins) are tended by app. 280 crew members. Length from bug to stern is 174 m; width from larbord to starbord is 24 m, and hight from top to bottom is 45 m above keel. When the machines are under full load they consume 40 tons of heavy fuel oil and 50-100 liters oil for lubication per day to put the 'heavy Lady' into motion (max speed app. 20 knots). Having a draft of 'only' 6.50 meters at full load Delphin Voyager may enter a lot more ports than the fleet of MSC or the Costa. A jet beneath the bow makes the ship very agile: it can accomplish an about-turn of 360° in ports and therefore waive tug services. This will save cost of about € 8,000 for each port maneuver.
Fresh water is produced on board, however max. 150 tons per day. The daily consumption of fresh water is app. 240 t / day though. Thus you can estimate when the full bunker capacity of 1,500 tons is used up. Then a port should be accessed to avoid passengers having their shower with salt water …
In addition to these technical facts our personal impression has to be added: the DV is a classic cruise ship which is obviously not entirely new. The public area and restaurants / bars are tastefully decorated and do not come across antiquated or dusty. You cannot walk an any of the 8 decks around the whole ship's exterior which is a major disadvantage. The jogging course on deck 8 - on top - is ridiculously short with about 80 meters and not worth its name. But for a walk in rough winds it is sufficient. The fitness room compensates this shortcoming with a variety of fitness equipment - amongst others 4 treadmills, 2 bike ergometers, cross trainers and various other kind including a view onto the aft deck and the open sea.
Tomorrow we reach Spitsbergen. We'll see what this is then about.

A foggy day ... ... with little sunshine

 


19.06.2009 – "Only those should travel who want a constant surprise"
11° - cloudy in the morning, from 11 am sunny
Ny Ålesund / Spitsbergen
In Ny-Ålesund The first "arctic" shore excursion awaits us in Ny Ålesund. Ny Ålesund is one of the northernmost settlements in the world, located in the Norwegian county of Svålbård. Between app. 30 people in winter and 120 people in summer live here. Previously coal mine, the settlement is now mainly polar research station. Since there are no constructed roads between the villages on Spitsbergen, Ny Ålesund is supplied either by air or (in the ice-free period) by ship. From Longyearbyen it can also be reached by snowmobile. Ny Ålesund owns the most northerly post office in the world. In general nearly anything is 'northernmost' here ...
The weather on our arrival is anything but arctic however - 11° and a warming sun. We enter the mainland of Spitsbergen. The archipelago of Spitsbergen - or Svålbård as it is called in Norway - is in only about 600 miles distance from the North Pole. Almost two thirds of the country is covered by ice. Nevertheless Svålbård is fairly good accessible due to the last Gulf stream foothills.
Peppered with instructions and regulations by the cruise management we invade the village. Probably we are observed by the scientists who live here as suspiciously as a swarm of mosquitoes: a nuisance, but temporary. The instructions and regulations of course serve the nature protection and fulfill their purpose. Each discarded cigarette butt takes decades to rot in this climate, every step away from the official path destroys lichens and mosses for years. 600 steps of 600 passengers per second would destroy a large area of the sensitive arctic flora. Thanks to the approved and supervised rules - probably released by the Sysselmann, the island's governor - we bloody passengers only damage an insignificant part of nature.
Ny Ålesund is a conglomeration of roughly 70 houses and is not even close to having the flair of a Central European village of the same size. Actually you can not speak of "flair" at all as there is no "flair". The village does not even seem to be particularly useful. Yes, apologies, it is useful: for example, the fuel depot is located in the centre of town; all the stations have the same quick access to fuel for cars and snowmobiles (which stand harmoniously side by side in front of each house).
Due to the permafrost all water pipes are above ground. Long wooden boxes with about 60x80 cm size run through the streets, one tries to solve the problem with frozen pipes this way. The "main street" is made of gravel and stretches in a wide arc through all stations. The single stations are partly built of wood and colorfully painted, partly made of concrete looking like a bunker.
Everything is viewed with great interest despite the relative tristesse around. 3 hours shore leave quickly pass. The motto at 1:00 pm: "all hands on board". In the afternoon we sail with slow speed along the wild coast of Spitsbergen. We pass the Krossfjord where we can take wonderful shots of icebergs drifting in the sea. Later through the Moller fjord and Liliehook fjord. Along the coast line we see white mountains and snow-capped glaciers, some reaching to the sea, many of them "starving" halfway up the mountain - probably one of the impacts of climate change.
Once again we are lucky concerning the weather. Only after reaching the open sea a fog comes up within minutes and we would see nothing but a handful of planks and a few inches of water around the ship...

Glacier near Ny Ålesund Ny Ålesund pier 'reindeers anywhere water lines above ground icebergs in the sea

 


20.06.2009 – "What is nearer when traveling than distance"
11° - sunny, calm seas
Magdalena bay / Spitsbergen
Glacier in Magdalena's bay We have reached the pack ice border. Unfortunately earlier than expected, thus a continuation of our journey in northern direction is no more possible. Thus we miss both the Moffen island as well as the passages Wood-, Liefde- and Smeerenburg-fjord which had originally been this morning's program.
The captain turns western direction instead half a day earlier than planned and heads for Magdalena Bay, our next goal and including shore leave. Thus we have reached exactly here the northernmost position of our cruise - 80° 02’ 180’’. The North Pole is less than 600 miles away. A stone's throw away actually but a stone's throw into an unreachable universe.
The entry into Magdalena fjord is the blowoff of our trip so far. The Magdalena Bay is probably the most famous fjord of Spitsbergen. The mixture of alpine mountains, steep fjord walls and 'glowing' glaciers is impressive. In bright sunshine the Delphin Voyager majestically moves - as if in slow motion - app. 1 mile into the fjord. Mighty glaciers are lined and illuminate the landscape in royal blue. Well, actually more turquoise. But doubtless with a royal touch...
During the dinner - 2 hours earlier due to the subsequent landing with tender boats - we reach the berth in front of the 'peninsula of the whalers'. In earlier centuries young fellows who were not strong enough for the Arctic were buried here. Also located here: the hut of the Sysselmann, the extended arm of the Norwegian law who takes care that tourists behave decently.
For three hours we have the wonderful opportunity to learn about this magnificent country, the land of the polar bears and the whalers. But we have a little more comfort than the pioneers of the northern seas had: a bar with tea, hot chocolate and mulled wine welcomes us ashore (free of charge). Further antifreeze fluids are also available (rum, vodka etc, additional charge). But there is no reason to warm up. The bay is calm, the sun is shining, the wind chill temperature is 20° (centigrade).
The water chill temperature is more at 0°! After two minutes running through the ice-cold arctic water (without boots, jeans rolled up), the question is whether the feet are just numb or have already fallen off. But a short energetic walk through the dry arctic sand reanimates my feet. A hot chocolate on top, and everything will be alright. In addition the wolf's feet are accustomed to cold water...
The remaining time on solid ground is used for exploring the surface. The ice crust on the ground is elusory because its surface is still frozen solid while the underlying part is already muddy and watery. Anyone may break through at any time and and drown deep to his waists. Everything is under surveillance; many photos are taken. The last passenger tender takes us back on board. Afterwards the crew only brings other things like the jetty and Arctic Bar aboard. Off we go to new frontiers...
Late at night I take my first 'real' midnight sun photo at the stroke of midnight at 79° north latitude. Even a whale joins us for a while at some distance, or rather we pass the 'playground' of the whale because his position is stable while we glide by. This is the best bedtime sweet we ever had. Good night!

Magdalena's bay footbath in the arctic sea On arctic ground Ice melts Midnight sun At night: an 'arktic' drink

 


21.06.2009 – "The world is a book. You only see one page when you never travel"
6-7° - sunny, an arctic wind is blowing
Longyearbyen / Spitsbergen
In Longyearbyen Arrival of the Delphin Voyager in Longyearbyen. Longyearbyen is the largest city and the administrative center of Svålbård. The city was founded in 1906 by the american entrepreneur John Munroe Longyear as coal mining village. The city was destroyed by the German army in 1943 and rebuilt after World War II. Today only one coal mine near the city is left which mainly supplies the local power plant. Longyearbyen today lives mainly on tourism and research. Amongst others, you find a branch of the Norwegian Polar Institute (NPI) and UNIS, a project of Norwegian universities, as well as the Svålbård Global Seed Vault.
Longyearbyen - the name of this settlement is almost longer than its main street. Synonym of Spitsbergen, of Svålbård, starting point for travelers through the Arctic.
We have 2 hours to explore this strange village. The former miners' settlement spreads a peculiar charm, a kind of willful tristesse with obvious attempts to improve the dwelling value. Priority is certainly not to win the competition "Better Living". But despite being relatively ugly the settlement wins at a closer look. A big half-pipe which is frequently used was built for the young people. The young people enchant us generally with their charm and joie de vivre. Young girls beckon out of the school windows: We wave back. They wafe back again. Well, we provide a welcome change.
A pedestrian is also available, even with a lot of shoe shops, souvenirs, boutiques, food stores and more. Even a few cafes and restaurants are open. I have slight doubt whether all these shops would survive without the wheeled-in tourists.
On our way back to the ship we leave the power station on the road between the center and the harbor behind us quickly, happy to have a fast hike. We return shortly before noon with a dusty taste on the lips - coal dust must be still in the air.
In the afternoon we cross half an hour before Barentsburg which is not far away from Longyearbyen in the same fjord. Barentsburg is a political issue somehow (I do not want to bore with politics) and dominated by coal, same as Longyearbyen but even uglier. At least for Central European standards. At a distance we spot a group of walruses. The distance is almost too big for photos.
And then it's time to say good-bye to Spitsbergen. At 17:30 we pass the southern tip of this northern country, and gone we are.
Our hotel manager Johannes Christ invites us to a glass of sparkling wine in the piano bar before diner. We learn a lot about the logistics of a cruise ship. Impressive figures rain down on us. Amongst other things we will consume the following quantities of food and drink during our cruise:
 
Fresh fruit 8,5 t
Fresh vegetables 9,2 t
Meat 2,9 t
Fish 1,6 t
Eggs 21.400 pcs
Milk 3.420 l
Water 11.200 l
Draft beer 3.300 l
Wine & Champagne 5.000 l

We will carry home a part of that (as overweight)! Lummy! We treat ourselves to another glass of wine (or two) to support the digestion of this huge food quantity. At 23:30 we enter our cabin. Good night!

Longyearbyen: arrival The only chuch in town Halfpipe in the arctic Biggi's got a new mate Barentsburg, Spitsbergen

 


22.06.2009 – "Luck is no condition but a way of travelling"
App. 7° - morning: rainy; afternoon: sunny
North Cape / Norway
'Blind passengers: seagulls A half day at sea passes by until about 17:30 the North Cape comes into sight. In the morning we go for a change and have a "walk". Half an hour round and round the ridiculously short jogging trail again and again. After half the time the other way around to avoid getting bored.
A lot of stowaways are on board today. A large flock of kittiwakes circles the ship, gets down on the lifeboats and let themselves be transported free of charge direction Norway. They make a hell of noise. Dozens of them flying artists turn the upper deck into a speckled minefield. A stay in one of the chairs on deck is not really recommended under these circumstances. Apart from that it would be too cold for a nap under the stars. We therefore withdraw after lunch (as always excellent and far too extensive) for an hour. We enter our cab to compensate the recent lack of sleep.
The weather gods on board do not forsake us. Upon reaching the North Cape the clouds disapear and the sun comes through. Sunlight breaks through dark huge clouds. A surreal, almost mystical athmosphere arises. Alternately brightly illuminated, then beclouded again, the end of Europe from which one can look at the end of the world welcomes us.
The captain maneuvers around the North Cape. We see the globe and the North Cape Hall way, way up. Our later land excursion would have gone here but we had to cancel it 3 days ago unfortunately as the wolf has to consult a dentist in Honningsvåg today - unfortunate result of the 'experiment' to eat a morning roll which was stronger than me.
Upon arrival at the port of Honningsvåg we meet an old acquaintance - the Costa Magica which had occupied the only berth at the peer in Longyearbyen. This time however we tie up at the pier and the Italians have to take tender boats for going ashore (incidentally a very good performance with about 3,500 passengers).
A dentist with a good, central european standard near the end of Europe? No problem! The treatment by a german dentist who had emigrated to Norway because of love is short and painless thanks to two syringes. Half an hour later I have an excellent replacement which guarantees the consumption of food for the rest of the cruise. I never went by ship to the dentist before...
2 hours time remain to visit Honningsvåg. What a contrast to the settlements on Spitsbergen. Civilization is back again! We see small parks with green meadows surrounded by colorful flower beds. Carefully arranged gardens all over although their size is sometimes really small. A treat for the eye! Small colored wooden houses. The church is not small but penurious furnished which is typical for Northern Europe. A vision of delight after the dark, rugged, barren coal settlements on Spitsbergen.
Also present many souvenir shops, fast food, hot dog and kebab stalls. It seems the North Cape attracts so many tourists that all these stores (most of them even now open at 11 pm) are able to get permanent income.
Some norwegian teenagers are still on the streets. They are probably here to behold the many young guests of the Costa Magica. We are too old ...
Birgit visited the North Cape 20 years ago and spent a night in Honningsvåg. She does not recognize anything. Obviously the city is changing fast. Many construction sites are signs of further change. Oh, did I write "city"? Yes, true. Honningsvåg has recieved its town charter in 1998. Due to an administrative agreement between Hammerfest and Honningsvåg Hammerfest however continues to advertise with the slogan "northernmost city in Europe". Honningsvåg campaigns for the North Cape.
At midnight we return to the ship. Back from the "North Cape excursion-would-be". And back with many pleasant impressions from Honningsvåg.
A bowl of pea soup later - or two, let's be honest - we are happy and tired. At one o'clock in the morning we go to bed. Hallelujah!

North Cape The old wolf and the sea Port of Honningsvåg many colours in Honningsvåg a church in Honningsvåg

 


23.06.2009 – "To satisfy one's curiosity is the biggest source of luck"
18° - blue sky
Tromsø / Norway
Landscape in Sommaroy (Norway) Hallelujah! Finally back in the gym! Thanks to yesterday's dental care I am now able to resume my work out and break away from the calories - the first time since 4 days. Although ... you do not have a real chance to break away. Too many calories are on board and waiting to be consumed.
But I am digressing. Excuse me. Today's main character of course is the landscape. The coast. The fjords and the archipelago. The further south we move the more of archipelago can be seen (but we are still in Northern Norway). The route along Norway's coast to Tromsø provides a wonderful insight into the archipelago of Norway's fjord coast.
Today's excursion takes us through the center of Tromsø where old wooden houses and the largest wooden church of Norway stand next to modern buildings. Passing the airport, we proceed to Kvaløy by crossing the Sandnessund bridge (1.200 m wingspan), the "long version" of the Tromsø bridge which is more famous. The "Whale Island" (Kvaløy) is the largest island of Norway. Its coastline facing the mainland is characterized by agriculture - very unusual for this latitude. On our trip we pass the tidal current Rystraumen. Finally we reach Sommarøy, with 300 inhabitants the largest fishing village in the county. From here we have an impressive view on the island Senja in the south, the rugged coastline in the north and the Arctic Ocean ahead.
Our overall impression of this tour:
The "daytrip to Sommarøy" takes us into blooming landscapes, colorful flower meadows, crystal clear waters and azure lagoons with crescent-shaped sandy beaches. The small summer cottages of the Norwegians are scattered along the banks - red, blue or yellow spots near to the green and blue waters. A view to fall in love with, a view to wanna-be-young-again. The readiness of all the Norwegians to believe in the existence of trolls fits exactly to this enchanted landscape.
What a contrast to the bizarre bicoloured landscape of Spitsbergen which is certainly a big attraction but cannot be compared with this beautiful countryside.
Back in Tromsø we have a brief photo stop. Just enough time to mug the Arctic Cathedral, the Tromsø bridge and the much longer (thus more susceptible to wind) Sandnessund bridge. And quickly return to the ship. Hopefully no traffic jam. We bomb down through the rush hour traffic. We're late. But no matter. If a trip organized by the ship returns late the ship waits. This is one advantage against individual trips…
Somehow the Delphin Voyager always manages to be on time. So this time (nearly).
On board: dinner. The clothing proposal today: smart casual. The dishes offered: Lucullus sends his regards. As conclusion: the cheese buffet. And a wine. Fine. Later at night the evening show program: an entertainer who presents songs from the "Rat Pack". No, not a word about the quality of the program at this point. A drink in the Dolphin Bar (or wine for the wolf) closes this evening.

archipelago dried cod on every 2nd balcony coloured houses, green meadows Arctic cathedral and Tromsø bridge Sandnessund bridge

 


24.06.2009 – "The world is filled with so many things - we all should be kings"
12-14° - sunny, a stiff breeze
Day at sea
games on the pool deck Another day at sea. The cold touch of debarkation approaches nearer: luggage tags for landing and further transport are issued. The tags have about 150 different colors - each colour for each option to travel. Okay. We put the luggage tags into the safe and continue to enjoy the cruise.
 
Even a day at sea is filled with activities. Boredom is no option. In place of the many other days at sea we present today's program:
 
 
07:00 Alarm clock rings.
07:00 – 08:00 Brush teeth, take shower, dress, have a coffee on deck and watch the weather (consider: To get 2 people ready by 08:00 requires a perfect logistics in the narrowness of the cabin).
08:00 – 08:30 Breakfast in the restaurant.
08:30 – 10:00 Enter the sundeck & look for a wind-protected place. Watch people and landscape. Read a book and write travel diary.
10:00 – 11:00 Change clothes. Move the treadmill (30 min). Take shower and change clothes. Alternatively stay on deck and read.
11:00 – 12:00 Watch people get drunk at the Bavarian morning pint. Thumb 2 hamburgers. Shirk polonaise.
12:00 – 13:00 Nap on the deck. Alternatively in the cabin.
13:00 – 14:00 Coffee on the pool deck. Alternatively coffee with a nice dessert.
14:00 – 15:00 Read a good book. Alternatively pilgrim along the ship and look for good subjects for photos.
15:00 – 16:00 Watch film about previous travel. Be agreed that the price for the movie is much too high.
16:00 – 16:30 Go to strudel buffet. Fill plate to the extent (app. 11.500 calories). Then consider to go to the buffet again.
16:30 – 17:30 Read, watch people & landscape. Search the library for another readable book.
17:30 – 18:30 Take shower, dry hair, make up. Optional watch teletext while getting dressed.
18:30 – 19:00 Aperitif.
19:00 – 20:30 Diner.
20:30 – 21:00 Digestif.
21:00 - ? Finally leisure. Until "lights out" in the cabin.

Pool bar biggest strudel ever seen a bumble bee on deck

 


25.06.2009 – "Walk confidently towards your dreams"
25° - sunny
Geiranger Fjord / Norway
Entering Geiranger fjord On this bright summer day we pull deeply into Norway's world of fjords. Our goal is the Geiranger fjord. At entering about 7:00 am it is already fairly warm - app. 15°. Forested mountains rise on both sides from the water up into the azure sky. Continuously the bottle-green fjord water is fed by white or silver shining waterfalls. We feel ourselves small like ants.
The Geiranger Fjord is one of the most popular travel destinations for cruise ships around the world. At the end of the narrow fjord the waters widen to a small lake. The "MSC Orchestra" (3.100 passengers) and the "Costa Luminosa" (approximately 2.900 passengers) are gathered already as the Delphin Voyager enters. The "Konig Albert" from Hurtigruten joins in later. We have booked a hiking tour fortunately so we may escape from the crowded valley. We take the bus from the pier through the village of Geiranger uphill to Hole which is about 2 miles away and the starting point of our hike. Soon after the start of our hike nobody elso but our little tour group is to be seen.
Under a torrid sun and clear blue skies we clamber up the mountains of Norway and feel almost like climbing the Bavarian Alps.
We hike through colorful flowering meadows with smaller and larger creeks and waterfalls inbetween. At every bend of the path a new magnificent view opens. Now and then the green shimmering fjord flashes through the dark green forests. We reach the hiking destination Storseterfossen after about 1 ¼ hours. From approx. 550 m above sea level the waterfall pours down the mountain, undermines rocks, disappears under cliffs, forms rapids and cascades.
A narrow, steep path along a nearly vertical rock face takes us behind the actual waterfall itself. A small cave opens up. There's room for a handful of people. It is moist, it is loud. Water drips down from the ceiling and the walls. The 'water curtain' is now in front of us. Fascinating. This outlook is subject only to hikers who neither have difficulty in walking steep paths nor suffer from high vertigo.
After a short rest we take the same way back. This time of course downhill which is a little less stressful. Nevertheless the sweat runs. The sun burns down. There is not a single cloud in the sky. It may be about 30°. A cool drink from the mountain springs is very welcome and gladly accepted. The snack break at Westerås (a quaint mountain inn) consists of waffles with cherry jam and sour cream and is also accepted gladly. From the nearby lookout point we have a great view over the fjord, the town Geiranger and - positioned almost vertically below us - our ship.
We save ourselves the return journey by bus and prefer to walk down the switchbacks to Geiranger past the Fjord Center, past the little white church within a picturesque cemetery, and past the 'Union Hotel'. Back in Geiranger we visit the beautifully situated campsite through which the creek coming from Storseterfossen flows. We visit the small port where you can rent all kind of boats - from kayaks to yachts. We have an ice cream in one of the shops at the pier before we take the 15:00 tender boat back to the ship. On board we torment the treadmill for half an hour. This allows us to take all courses at diner, harhar. During meal the captain steers into the Hellesylt fjord to pick up some day-trippers.
At 22:30 we have a kitchen tour. Further calorie bombs wait for us: donuts with vodka. Yummy. Brrr! Good night!

Wasserfall 'the seven virgins' a mountain troll. can you detect him? Geiranger Storseterfossen Behind the waterfall

 


26.06.2009 – "The biggest showplace is the world - have a look"
30° - sunny
Bergen / Norway
Bryggen - the old town of Bergen Bergen. The idiosyncratic jewel of Norway. With about 250 rainy days a year Europe's most rain-laden city. But we don't bother. We travel together with the sun. The navigation through Norway's archipelagos opens indescribably beautiful views and impressions. Small islands, round like pancakes (and some of them not much bigger) but almost all covered with at least one holiday cottage, glide by barely 10 yards away from the hull of Delphin Voyager. I can imagine our captain sweatdropping. But the pilot guides us safely through the shoals into the harbor.
Just before 9:00 am we leave the ship and explore Bergen on our own (an organized trip is planned for the afternoon). Bergen provides the flair of a mediterranean town, and this impression is amplified by the bright sunshine. Wide boulevards and pedestrian streets, spacious squares, flowering parks - we feel ourselves relocated to - for example - Puerto de la Cruz, Tenerife. In Bryggen, the historic old town district - built entirely of wood and one or the other time in history completely burned down and rebuilt - we buy an exquisite cushion cover made of famous Hardanger Lace. The Hanseatic district of Bryggen with its approximately 280 wooden houses belongs to the World Heritage by UNESCO and is considered as most significant historical landmark of Bergen. On the fish market nearby Bryggen we taste elk-salami and whale meat. A visit to the fortress Håkons hall is also worthwhile before we return to the ship around noon.
Before the hike to Fløyen (mountains near Bergen) we rest for half an hour and pick up a snack from the buffet at the pool deck.
The hike to Fløyen is considerably less demanding than yesterday's scramble. We mount the Fløibanen to get to the famous viewpoint above the town which offers a spectacular view over the city, the harbor, the archipelago and the surrounding mountains. From here we hike in less than an hour to Fløyen. Paved paths and roads make the walk easy even for the elder passengers amongst our group. An even more spectacular view of the city, the harbor, the archipelago, the mountains and the sea opens from the top of the mountain. For the way back we take the same route, now downhill of course…
Dinner on board is hot tonight. The motto: farewell and gala dinner. We all get dolled up. The captain personally says goodbye to his guests and we have one or two glasses of free champagne. The dinner menu consists - amongst others - of lobster tail soup and a freshly 'caught' sea bass from Bergen fish market.
After dinner I enter the dolphin bar and have espresso and a fag. Suddenly I see Angelika Milster, a german actress and singer who apparently boarded in Bergen. This solves the secret about the announced guest star. Her performance will start in half an hour.
Even later we sit at a table in the Dolphin Bar and watch the artists' "closing time" after tonights farewell appearance. The cruise is (nearly) done. The 'work' is done. They look back on successful work and now enjoy the party. A somehow casual, relaxed atmosphere is in the air. Everybody is nonchalant. I believe bell founders who have just dug up a cast bell and test for the first time its sound may spread a similar athmosphere.
And Gong! the tattoo beats. Good night!

In the old town (Bryggen) Broad boulevards in Bergen on the fish market View on Bergen from Fløyen Star guest Angelika Milster at the bar

 


27.06.2009 – "This is for sure: To travel does good"
20° - sunny
Day at sea
a bumble bee on the bridge The last day of this cruise is a day at sea. Today's highlight is our visit on the bridge. Last night we had found the invitation in our cabin. After a (nearly) extensive breakfast we therefore follow this invitation and look over the captain's shoulder.
Anyone who has ever seen a series of "dream boat" will be mistaken if he expects an elegant bridge equipped with wood paneling and teak planks. Grey color predominates. Nondescript plastic flooring instead of wooden planks, matt steel instead of rosewood and brass. Although from technical aspects certainly up to date the bridge of Delphin Voyager still spreads the charme of a banana boat. No glitz and glamour like in the passenger areas.
The control panels are explained in detail. The world of nautics approaches a little. As well approaches the time to draw a conclusion of this journey. We draw several conclusions as follows:
 
This was not our last cruise because the bacillus finally hit us, too. For our next trip we will choose a ship with a similar size as Delphin Voyager. We have seen new, large 'pots' such as the MSC Orchestra or Costa Magica and Costa Luminosa in various ports. Those tourist ghettos are not to our liking. To tender with 3,500 people will be pretty joyless for example. Rather a size like the MS Astor will come into question.
We had lots of fun on board and recovered well thanks to the alternation between active excursion days and relaxing days at sea. We will thus pay attention on a balanced mix of trips and recreation in future cruises.
The tidiness on board and the food supply were very good and met in fact the four **** star standard.
The outer cabin was nice and its size adequate though not really large or otherwise mind-blowing. A balcony cabin on this trip would have cost € 4,000 more - that's it not worth.
The well-trained and very friendly staff have delighted our hearts. The charges for drinks on board were (barely) in line. Organized trips could have been a little less expensive. We had professional local guides without exception however who knew about the local infrastructure and also narrated one or the other anecdote which can not be found in guidebooks.
 
We will keep this journey on which we travelled a total of 5.304 nautical miles or 6.140 miles in best memories as one of our great vacation highlights.

Delphin Voyager bridge The sea wolf on the bridge further view of the bridge

 


28.06.2009 – "The best thing about holidays are the memories of them"
20° - sunny
Disembarkment & journey home by train
We arrive at Bremerhaven early in the morning. A final breakfast, a last glance into the cabin, a final step on the deck. At 8:40 we leave the Delphin Voyager with a strange feeling.
 


 

Bye-bye, till some time!







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This page was last updated on: 29.05.2011